Bargain Bite: Remodeled Angkor Borei

When a restaurant has been around for a while, it's easy to take it for granted, especially when the decor has gotten a bit dusty. That was the case with Angkor Borei, one of the Bay Area's only Cambodian restaurants, which has been on Mission Street at the foot of Bernal Heights for more than 20 years.

A few months ago, its owners remodeled it. The bright pomegranate-red paint, gold trim and modern light fixtures will attract new customers and give longtime patrons a newfound appreciation for the fresh food and friendly service.

Tom Prabpan and Chinhan Yat, the husband-and-wife team who own and run the restaurant, are always warm. The food - influenced by Cambodian and other Southeast Asian cuisines - is well prepared for the price, which tops out at $11.95 for a few seafood dishes. The restaurant is also popular for its vegetarian menu, which includes faux-poultry choices like ginger mock chicken ($8.65).

The waiters will steer anyone who is interested in trying Cambodian specialties toward dishes like Ahmohk ($9.50), a curry-flavored fish mousse served in banana leaves.

To start, try the fresh spinach leaves ($6.95), which you fill with a mixture of peanuts, lime, chiles, toasted coconut, ginger and sauce to turn into explosively flavored mouthfuls. Cool ground pork salad ($6.65) is tossed with bean thread noodles, vegetables and a spicy lime dressing and comes with a pile of crisp lettuce leaves.

Barbecuechicken ($8.65), coated with a fragrant spice mix, arrives with a chile sauce and a pile of marinated sauteed vegetables. The fresh-tasting, sauteed green-lipped mussels ($9.95) feature a rich, nutty coconut sauce.

重要器官:3471 Mission St. (near Cortland), S.F. (415) 550-8417.www.cambodiankitchen.com. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 4-10 p.m. Mon., Wed.-Sat.; 4-10 p.m. Sun. Beer and wine. Credit cards and reservations accepted.

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